Monday, June 14, 2010

Nine Long Hours

We woke early the following morning to catch the Andean Explorer train to Cusco.  It stops right in front of our hotel, but only going in the Cusco to Puno direction.  We had to arrange for a taxi to bring us downtown.

The trip started off well.  A Peruvian band played as we boarded.  We didn't have to scramble for seats as they was already assigned.  The interior was elegant with white tablecloths and comfortable chairs.

It was all downhill from there.  This was the rockiest train I have ever been on (even worse than the overnight train in China).  The ride was even bumpier than an old-fashion, wooden roller-coasters.  We did our best to enjoy the scenery, especially the many farms, crumbling adobe houses, and llama herds.  The poverty in the region was evident.





The Wife enjoys a Pisco sour.
We made a stop half-way through our journey.  The views 
of the snow-covered mountains were spectacular.



To the staff’s credit they prepared and served a pretty good lunch despite all of the shaking going on.

Barbecue pork rib.
Chicken with verde sauce.

There was "entertainment" provided during the journey.

A lady performed a dance accompanied by a Peruvian band.
Keep the pan flute blands playing or the giant gerbils will attack!

While the scenery was interesting, it also got extremely repetitive after nine hours of traveling.  The ride was just too bumpy to sleep or read.  In retrospect, we should have flown.  It would have been cheaper, and we could have had more time in Cusco. 





Our ennui was interrupted briefly by a dainty afternoon tea service.


We arrived after dark where our pre-arranged driver was waiting for us.  I'm glad The Wife thought of that because the station was practically deserted, and I didn't see any taxis nearby.

We had found a great deal online, so we decided to splurge at the Hotel Monasterio.  The rooms are not especially spacious.  There is no pool, spa, or gym.   But that is expected as they once housed monks.  The history alone was the appeal for us.  Originally built as a seminary in 1592, it still retains an ornate chapel, original oil paintings, and a eerie monastic ambiance.  One of our guides even swore that the place is haunted.  The religious chanting music they subtly played probably helped contribute to this atmosphere.


The staff was very attentive which always makes me feel guilty.  They definitely had an eye for details.  The hotel's logo was everywhere--on the doors, embroidered on the bedsheets, and even drawn into the sand in the cigarette ashtrays.  


As we were to find out during our stay there, the Monasterio has a truly awesome breakfast buffet.  Not only did they have the usual American stalwarts (omelet station, bacon, sausage, cereal), but they also had traditional Peruvian foods including sweet or savory tamales with creole relish.  Their spread of various pastries alone was enough to stock a patisserie.

We ate dinner at Illariy, the fancy restaurant in our hotel.  Located adjacent to the monastery courtyard and enclosed by glass walls, the dining area gives the ambiance of being outdoors without freezing your butt off. The food was good, especially the chowder.  It was pricey especially for Peruvian standards, but still affordable by American standards.

Causa amuse-bouche
Spicy seafood chowder

Skirt steak with a chimichurri sauce
Crab pastry Napoleon, their signature dish.

Another trout entree.

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