Sunday, December 31, 2017

Barcelona Day 4 - The Montjuïc Area

Our time in Spain was coming to an end.  After about two weeks, we had one last day before it was time to fly back to the U.S.  Therefore, we wanted to fit in a visit to Montjuïc Castle which was built in 1640.  Control of this fortress has been crucial in various battles fought near Barcelona during the Catalan Revolt, the Napoleonic Wars, and the Spanish Civil War.

We took the metro to the Montjuïc area.  Since we weren't in the mood to make a long uphill walk, we rode the cable car to the top.  There was a long queue to get on, but the line moved quickly.  As we expected there was a nice view of Barcelona through the dirty glass of the cable car.


Once at the top of the hill, we lined up again to pay for our entry into the castle.  Until three years ago, Montjuïc Castle was free to enter.  Now there is a nominal fee. We crossed the dry moat, entered the main gate, and headed straight up to the second floor.




A sun clock is inscribed on the wall of the Fort's main tower.

This fortress overlooks Barcelona making it a key strategic strong point in the defense of the city.  Unfortunately, during those instances when the fort was captured by invading forces, the high ground was used to bombard the city below.

On the castle grounds, there is no shortage of artillery pieces that span several eras.


Montjuïc Castle was initially designed to protect only against land-based attacks.  Initially, no defenses were erected on the coastal walls.  This would be a costly mistake during the War of Spanish Succession.  The French navy was able to sail up to the castle and bombard the hapless defenders to submission prior to the land invasion.  Years later, naval guns were added to protect against naval vessels.  This didn't help during the Spanish Civil War as the fascist Italian planes bombed the fort from the air.


With a couple of well-placed shells, Barcelona's problem with tourist over-crowding would be solved.

In the 19th and 20th centuries, revolutionaries and political prisoners were incarcerated and executed within the fortress.  The most renown was the Catalan President Lluis Companys who sided with the losing Republican faction during the Spanish Civil War.




We could not have picked a nicer winter day to visit Montjuïc Castle.  The sun was out and it wasn't too windy at all.  The grounds surrounding the castle are well-manicured. One field was even being used as an archery range.




Since it was such a beautiful day, we walked downhill back to town.  It took us over half an hour, but it allowed us to see some areas of Barcelona that we would have missed otherwise.  We could see some of the stadiums and buildings that were constructed back in 1992 for the Summer Olympics.  Eventually, we found ourselves back at the National Palace, which we had viewed from a distance the day before.  This time we were walking downhill towards the Plaza de Espana.  There was a flurry of activity along the boulevard as workers were preparing for the New Years Eve celebration that would take place later that night.

Balloons filled with confetti lined
the streets of the Plaza de Espana

Since we were already in the neighborhood, The Wife insisted that we spend the last few hours of our time in Spain at an architectural and cultural museum called the Poble Espanyol.  The park was built for the 1929 International Exposition and is meant to show the important structures and heritage from the different regions of Spain.  Since we had just spent two weeks travelling throughout Spain already, the place sounded like a waste of time.  After spending two hours there, my suspicions were correct.  Although there were some mildly interesting things to see...actually, no.  There really wasn't anything worthwhile to see.  The Wife will never admit it, but the place just really sucked.

The giant Barbie dolls at the
entrance to the Poble Espanyol...
...were a red flag that this place was gonna be really lame.

The Girl pets a large horse-shaped piece of dookie.



We did have lunch at one of the many eateries inside.  It wasn't great food but it wasn't terrible food either.  It was probably the highlight of our time there.

Spanish Omelette with potatoes and onion
Small fried squid

Catalan sausage with beans
Prawns "ajillo" with garlic

Cannelloni with white sauce
Fideua negra (with squid ink)

They did have a yule log tucked away in a small room in one of the buildings.  This Tió de Nadal is a great Spanish tradition.  Children will take care of this piece of wood that has legs and a creepy face.  They will cover it with blankets to keep it warm and "feed" it nuts and fruit daily.  This will go on daily during the holiday season starting on December 8 which is the Feast of the Immaculate Conception.  Finally on Christmas Day, the kids will all gather around, sing a joyful song, and then proceed to beat the living crap out of the yule log until he literally...craps.  The blanket is lifted and behold!  There are wonderful candies and presents that the log has defecated out.

He also probably farts out rainbows.

I do have to say that the Spanish are awesome with their obsession with festive scatology.


We rang in the New Years not in the midst of all the revelry at the Plaza de Espana (Barcelona's version of Times Square).  Instead we were all huddled up in our apartment killing time before we had to leave in the wee morning hours to make our 6:50 AM flight to Frankfurt.  We did participate in the Spanish tradition of eating 12 grapes at the stroke of midnight for good luck.  Unfortunately, that seemed to backfire as The Father-In-Law accidentally left his briefcase with his laptop and passports in the apartment building AFTER we had locked it with the keys inside.  After several frantic calls and an hour's delay, the offsite landlord was able to send someone to open the apartment and retrieve the briefcase.  We were still able to make it to the airport in time to catch our flight.  So in retrospect, it's hard to say whether our luck was good or bad.

Overall, we did enjoy our two weeks in Spain.  Winter was probably not the best time to go as the beauty of Andalusian was not really evident with the flowers not in bloom.  Plus we froze our butts off in places like Toledo.  There is so much history in Spain, but all the cathedrals and forts get pretty monotonous after awhile.  The food was great pretty much in every city, and we were only scratching the surface of what the country had to offer.  Although Madrid and the surrounding towns has a lot of history and Barcelona has a plethora of architecture and culture, The Wife and I preferred the southern cities of Andalusia better.  The more intimate towns and slower pace of life were more relaxing for us on our vacation.

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