Traipsing Through Traditional China

So far on our trip, The Boy and The Girl had only been exposed to the modern bustling cities of Beijing and Shanghai.  Only in the last hundred years has China actually undergone the modern transformation and begun to shed it's yoke of 2,500 years of tradition.  While this has eventually transformed the country into a leading world power, it has also drained it of its rich cultural heritage.  The Wife and I wanted to expose our children to some of the traditional elements of Chinese life.  The Great Wall and the Forbidden City are great historical monuments, but they really just symbolize China’s illustrious past.  We decided to visit the old city of Pingyao so that we could better understand how ordinary Chinese people lived for hundreds of years.

Before last year, neither The Wife nor I had ever heard of Pingyao.  In fact, almost none of the people we knew from China who had emigrated to the U.S. had any knowledge of it.  Fortunately, The Wife read about this place on the internet and became enamored with visiting it. 

Pingyao is located in the Shanxi province about 700 miles southwest of Beijing.  Its history dates back to about 2,700 years ago, with the possession of the city changing hands from the different warring kingdoms and dynasties that ruled this part of China.  However, its biggest achievements have come more recently.  During the Qing Dynasty, Pingyao was known as the financial center of all of China.  Because the land in Shanxi is not great for agriculture, people from Pingyao had historically traveled the country as merchants.  After becoming rich in their trade, they eventually brought their wealth back home.  With these large sums of money, the first banks in China were founded.

But the biggest reason that The Wife wanted to visit Pingyao is that the city’s architecture has been spared from the destruction of The Cultural Revolution and the stresses of modernization.  In 1370, immense city walls were erected around the city.  To this day, these walls have remained among the best preserved in all of China.  In the old section of Pingyao, citizens still live in the same traditional courtyard homes that their ancestors had built centuries before, albeit renovated for modern conveniences.  Even in some areas in the neighboring countryside, people still lived in traditional yaodongs.  These houses are essentially caves carved into the hills or cliffs.  They remain cool during the hot summer days and provide protection from the cold winds of winter.  The most notable yaodong is the one used by Mao Zedong as his communist headquarters from 1935-1948.  Visiting the Shanxi provice would be the closest way that we could experiencing what life in traditional China was like.

We left our wonderful Marriott Executive Apartments Imperial Palace in Beijing with some regret.  The Architect’s friend was nice enough to take us to the train station for a high speed rail to Taiyuan, the capital of the Shanxi province.

We were given some slightly different snacks on this leg of our trip.  One packet contained
vinegar but there was nothing to put it on.  The Wife explained that some people drink it straight.

Instead of buying food on the train, we purchased some instant noodles at the rail station
(the trains have dispensers for hot water).  Some even came with vacuum sealed boiled eggs.

When our train arrived at its final destination, we were met by Shanxi Lady, who was a friend of a friend of The Father-In-Law.  Since she grew up in the modern section of Pingyao and still had parents who lived there, she was the perfect person to show us around.  In order to transport us (and our several bags of luggage), she hired The Surly Driver and his van for the next three days.  From the train station we had a 70 km drive to Pingyao.

In Chinese mythology the crane is a symbol of immortality.  In reality, cranes dotted Taiyuan's
cityscape.  Apparently, the local communist leadership has been aggressive at renovating the city. 

The Wife had debated whether to stay in a modern hotel outside the city walls, or stay in a traditional home within Pingyao's old city.  Although it would have less space and amenities, we eventually decided on the De Ju Yuan Guesthouse, a converted traditional home.  Shanxi Lady and her family would also stay there too since her five-year old son The Little Emperor had never spent a night in a traditional Chinese home.

As we passed through the modern section of Pingyao, we could see the city walls that surrounded the old city.

In order to get into the old city, vehicles have to pass through the narrow openings in the city walls. 

Most commercial automobiles are not allowed on the narrow streets within the
city walls.  We had to ditch our van and take a small cart into the old city.  

Even with the cart, we still had to wheel our luggage about 100 feet to the guesthouse as part of the street was blocked off to vehicular traffic.  When we checked into the guesthouse, the kids were disappointed in the spartan lodgings.  They had been spoiled by the large hotel rooms in Beijing and Shanghai.  Staying at this traditional home would be a good experience for them as they would get an idea how their ancestors had lived.

It's easy to walk into the wrong guesthouse as their exteriors all look very similar.  

The main courtyard of this traditional home also doubled as a dining area.

The majority of the room was taken up by a king-sized bed.

The room was 488 RMB per night plus an extra 100 RMB/night for this "roller" bed

Before picking this guesthouse, we
made sure that they have seated toilets.

Behind this door was a communal area
connecting our and Shanxi Lady's rooms.  

The old-fashion layout meant that the
shower sprayed the entire bathroom.

After we finished checking in, we walked just a few yards from the De Ju Yuan Guesthouse to the Rishengchang Exchange Shop.  

Considered the first bank in China, the Rishengchang was established in 1823 and lasted for 108 years.

Just like modern banks, the front of the compound was manned
by several cashiers who took care of the deposits and withdrawals.

The Rishengchang was more than a simple bank, the staff also lived on the premises.

The manager's office was located in the
back away from the noise of the customers.

The accommodations were considered luxurious in those times, with a personal stove and pillows.

The sycee was an ingot of silver or gold.  Unlike coins, they had no standardized size or weight.

No bank could function without an abacus.

At its peak, the Rishengchang had 35 branches that reached all of China and beyond.

In the back of the compound, there was also a guestroom...

...that accommodated VIP customers and visiting officials.

There was also a kitchen on the premises that served the staff their food...

...and tea.

This stone seat mimicked the shape of a sycee...

...as did the wash basin in the bathroom.

Large basins were filled with sand...

...and water in case of a fire.

After we left the Rishengchang, we turned down Ming-Qing Street, the commercial center of Pingyao, to visit some more historic locations.  Along the way we passed countless stalls with lethargic shopkeepers hiding from the heat of the sun.

Ming-Qing Street runs through the City Tower.
Built in 1688, it is the tallest structure in Pingyao.

An old well is blocked off so nobody accidentally falls inside.

Eventually we arrived at the yamen, the county government office.  During imperial times, Pingyao was the seat of the county.  The magistrate who served as both the mayor and judge lived in this compound which was originally built in 1346.  This complex which contained over 300 rooms functioned as both his house as well as his office.  Since we got there just before closing time, the workers padlocked the doors to each room right after we exited them.

Although the county government office was established during the Yuan Dynasty,
most of the current buildings were erected later during the Ming Dynasty.

An elaborate carving of a dragon decorates
this stone wall outside the main entrance.

These fire buckets and shovels are for decoration only.  On closer
inspection, the buckets have been sawed in half so that they hang easier.

Litters and covered wagons...

...were used to transport important people.

During the day criminals were punished...

...by placing them in the stocks or a wooden cage.

At night, they were placed...

...back in their jail cells.

Reenactments of the county magistrate conducting a trial were performed in the afternoons. 

A weapons rack displays a variety
of polearms used by the Chinese.

Nearby, several instruments of torture were used... 

...to elicit a confession from accused prisoners.

In the office of the magistrate's secretary, county records were stored.

This courtyard containing a 600 year-old tree led to the magistrate's quarters.  In
order to gain access to this official, people would often have to bribe the doorman.

The magistrate's quarters consisted of a bedroom, meeting room, and a study.

The magistrate lived alone as his family
was prohibited from staying with him.

The small garden and nearby Chess Pavilion looks serene and peaceful.

But a hidden danger lurks
among the vegetation.

On display were some mills used to process...

...wheat and rice.

Inside the complex is the Temple to the Land God.  In Taoist folk lore,
he is a low level deity that assists with weather and agricultural affairs.

Sometimes the roofs are so ornately-decorated that it's hard to notice the birds on top.

During the imperial time, The Bell Tower
was used to mark the correct time.

There is a good view of Qing-Ming Street from the City Tower.

On our way back to our guesthouse, we hunted for some food products that are local specialties.  One is Shanxi vinegar.  Just like in Italy where balsamic vinegar is revered for its aging process, the quality of Shanxi vinegar improves over time.

Vinegar is stored in large vats that
can be found all over the town.

The taste is slightly sweet but more astringent than a fine balsamic vinegar.

Just like the balsamic vinegar in local grocery stores that is mainly poor quality mixes, Shanxi vinegar has also been tarnished by fakes.  Luckily, we had Shanxi Lady to steer us in the right direction.

Since we couldn't fit a vat into our luggage, we
bought two small bottles of the vinegar.

Move over Sunny Delight!  We also tried sha ji juice, a citrus-like drink
popular in Shanxi that is made from the fruit of the sea buckthorn shrub.

Another local specialty of the region is Pingyao beef.  The cows are not the important component as they are raised elsewhere.  It is the salt that comes from the region that is special for the curing process.  The beef, usually from an old ox, is braised for several hours with this salt and alkaline well water.

The end product has a consistency similar to corned beef, except a bit firmer and not as salty.

We returned to the De Ju Yuan Guesthouse to eat dinner.  We ordered some dishes special to the region, most of which are noodles.

The cook sliced up the Pingyao beef for us.

Tofu with fermented shrimp sauce.

Wantu is a steamed wheat-flour cake sliced into noodles and
served with a sauce of chilies, soy sauce, and vinegar.

This dish, stir-fried with coriander and a hint of vinegar, was our favorite.
It is made with hollow, cylindrical buckwheat noodles.

Mao er duo (cat's ear noodles) have a consistency similar to orrechiete.

These deep-fried long yams glazed in honey were our least favorite dish.

***********

We had an early start the next morning as we would have a busy day.  We had a light breakfast at the guesthouse.

The Wife had millet porridge with pickled vegetables.

I had the "bacon" and eggs.

The kids shared...

...chocolate and banana pancakes

The Surly Driver transported us for about an hour to Mian Shan, a mountain that has been important to China’s history for the last 2,500 years.  The mountain holds a prestigious place in Chinese lore because of a man named Jie Zhitui who lived during the Jin Dynasty (~ 600 B.C.)  According to legend, Prince Chong’er of Jin faced many difficulties while in exile for 18 years after a failed assassination attempt.  He was aided by his loyal adviser and friend, Jie Zhitui, who reportedly cut off the flesh from his own thigh to feed the starving prince.  Once Chong’er ascended to the throne to become the Duke of Jin, he wanted to reward Jie Zhitui by making him one of his ministers.  By this time, Jie was already living in his mountain paradise on Mian Shan and was dedicated to taking care of his elderly mother.  After Jie refused the invitation, Chong’er wanted to invite him in person.  However, the trek up the mountain was too difficult for the duke, so he ordered his men to set the mountain on fire to force Jie down.  Unfortunately, the plan backfired.  Jie remained on the mountain with his mother and both perished from the fire.  Overcome with remorse, the Duke established a holiday called the Hanshi festival in his remembrance.  Over three days, no fires would be lit and all food would be consumed cold.  Over time, the Hanshi festival was transformed into the Qingming Festival, popular in China and its neighboring Asian countries.  This holiday is a time for people to enjoy the outdoors and pay their respect to their ancestors.

A large statue of Jie Zhitui greets visitors to Mian Shan.

Nearby are also several golden statues...

....of animals and mythical beasts important in Chinese lore.

In the interval centuries, several temples have been constructed high upon the mountain overlooking the steep cliffs.  These include Daluo Palace, the largest Taoist temple in all of China.  Unfortunately, almost all of these structures were destroyed by the Japanese during World War II.  Most everything at Mian Shan has been reconstructed in the 1990’s to resemble the originals.  Although everything is a more modern facsimile, the temples hanging off the mountain side are still impressive to see.  However, we weren't going for the religious attractions, but more for the natural scenery. 

A scale model of the entire Mian Shan area is located in the visitor's center.

After we purchased our tickets, we loaded onto buses that transport tourists on a long, serpentine road up the mountain.  These vehicles stop to load and disembark passengers at every major attraction.

As we trudged up this two-lane road, we got
breath-taking views of the valley below.

A stone guardrail with crenulations was the only thing protecting
the buses from a sharp plunge to the bottom of the valley.

At the first several stops were the temples devoted to local gods and Buddha as well as Daluo Palace, the largest Taoist temple in China.  However, we had no inclination to see any religious sites.  Therefore, we rode the bus all the way to God Valley Square, the very end of the line.

We couldn't have picked a better day to be outdoors.  After the suffocating heat of Beijing, we were greeted with crisp 70 degree weather for much of the day.  However, it was a bit chilly in the first few hours of the morning, and most of us were wearing just a T-shirt and shorts.  

We purchased blankets for The Boy and The Little Emperor to keep 

them warm.  The Girl had been smart enough to bring a sweater.

We took the Shui Tao Gully hiking trail...

... that followed a gentle
incline up the mountain. 

This area of Mian Shan...

...is known for its many waterfalls.

Some drop for hundreds of feet...

...others from only a few.

There were  a couple of large rocks...

...and trees that the kids could safely climb.

The beautiful waterfalls and the luscious vegetation alone would have made the trail worth visiting for the outdoor enthusiast.  However, the park authorities felt compelled to add artificial stone structures and gimmicky figures to appeal to the masses.

Some statues tried to be educational.  They depict the tales about Jie Zhitui's life on the mountain.

Others were merely for fun.

Some of the figures were
about Chinese history...

...others were about nature.

Mythology was often the subject, such as in this Two Dragon Waterfall.

There were plenty of placards (in both Chinese and English) that explained these stories about Jie Zhitui and Chinese history.  Personally, I found the translations to be a bit confusing.  I got really lost when it came to the part where the Emperor of China met the dinosaurs.  WTF!?!

Land of the Lost?  Jurassic Park? Nope, Mian Shan.

At least they made this apatosaurus
statue bigger than a person.

This statue is very misleading.  There are no fish in this stream.

Other signs along the trail were also equally confusing.  I think their messages would be more appropriate for a fortune cookie rather than a park.

I’m glad that I wore comfortable shoes because it was a long hike to the end.  The trail winds up the mountain for a few kilometers.  It’s not a horribly steep incline, but it can be tiring especially for little kids.  The path culminates in a moderate waterfall surrounded by rocky walls.

Prayer ribbons were tied on the rails that led to the final waterfall.

There's also a cave behind the waterfall, but nobody
went inside because it was too cold and wet.

The hike back down is much easier and much faster.  I was surprise at the sheer volume of tourists at the park—at least at the entrance.  Only a small fraction of the visitors were stupid enough to walk the entire distance.  While Mian Shan is an impressive site to see, it is far from the big cities and nowhere on the scale of famous places like the Great Wall or the Forbidden City.

Along the way, I was stopped five times by other tourists asking me questions in Chinese.  It must have been a bit puzzling to them when I just stared back at them like a deaf-mute.  We saw no other foreigners over here, so I guess they just assumed I was another Chinese tourist too.  It would be a recurring theme for us on our trip as the locals were often surprised at our Chinese-looking kids only speaking English.

Overall, the trail is clean, but it’s also very artificial. The tons of concrete and man-made stones used to create the statues and waterfalls do detract from the “natural” beauty.  Nevertheless, it was still a nice outdoor walk especially for families.  If I really wanted an authentic hike, I could always climb up a mountain and sleep miserably in a tent for a couple of days (never again!). 

Back at the bottom, there are several dining options.

Under some tents, there are vendors essentially selling street food.

We had to use the restrooms, so we opted for the indoor restaurant.

To save time, we eschewed the sit down-and-order option...

...and chose the already-prepared
cafeteria-style food. 

The kids and I split a bunch of dishes packed with carbs.

The Wife had the spicy beef noodle soup.

The food wasn't bad, but it wasn't good either.  It was, however, very convenient and quick.  After lunch, we took the bus back down.  Depending on one’s interest in temples, you can spend more than a day looking at the 400 attractions on Mian Shan.  Having seen more than our fair share of religious sites over the years, we just wanted to make one stop so that we could get a good perspective on how these structures were constructed.

Since it sounded secular enough, we stopped at the Sky Bridge, a 300 meter-long plank road located 300 meters from the bottom of the valley.  As we got off the bus, we found that it was built to connect two temples.  Doh!  Since it started to rain and we were already tired, we paid 5 RMB/person to take the elevator.  We were sorely disappointed to learn that it didn't go all the way to the very top.  There was still a set of stairs to get to the sky bridge.  Since it was wet and very windy, we decided against going any farther especially with a bunch of small, grumpy kids.

At only one yard wide, the Sky Bridge is suspended
high up on the side of the mountain.

The Sky Bridge can be accessed by climbing up this temple.

The courtyard of the temple as viewed from above

The elevator was camouflaged so
that it blends in with the mountain.

Hungry little dragons decorate the roofs of these buildings.

The wet and cold kids pose next to a
statue of Shi Le who was a local general.

After not quite making it up to the Sky Bridge, we took the bus back down to the park entrance.  Instead of leaving Mian Shan right away, we had to wait for 20 minutes for the Surly Driver who was taking his time to eat lunch.  By then it was already 2 PM.  When he finally finished, he told us that we had too many passengers.  On the way to Mian Shan, Shanxi Lady’s husband had driven up with some friends who had already left (while we were waiting for the Surly Driver to finish eating).  Despite having a minivan that could easily fit 7 passengers, he adamantly refused to take more than the original 6 of us.  The husband was screwed.  He was stuck in the middle of nowhere with no way to get back to Pingyao.  After some time, he was lucky enough to find a taxi that would drive him back, albeit at an inflated price. Needless to say, he was not happy.

Our next stop would be the Wang Family Compound located on the way back to Pingyao.  Starting in the 14th century, the Wang family grew rich by farming and by selling tofu.  Over the next 600 years, the family continued to prosper from hard work and diligence, making them one of the wealthiest families in the region.  From 1762-1811, members of the family built an enormous walled compound that spanned an area of 150,000 square meters including 123 courtyards and 1,118 houses.  It is essentially a small town owned by one single extended family.

The entrance of the Wang Family Compound.

What I first thought was a cutesy kid's backpack turned out
to be a dog.  This guy must have really loved his pooch!

Only in China do you need to place signs like this at a major tourist attraction.

The roofs to the buildings next to the outer wall only sloped inwards.  This is
from the traditional Chinese superstition that rain will wash the money away.

Just like in the old buildings in Pingyao,
tools to fight fires (except an extinguisher)
can be found hanging on the walls. 

Entrances to the courtyards are through circular doors.  The bottoms
are not flush against the ground, so that evil spirits cannot enter.

To prevent accidental fires, candles were placed in
holes such as this, whereupon light would radiate.

There are other similar places around Pingyao including Qiao’s Compound which is popular to the Chinese because the movie Raise the Red Lantern was filmed there.  However, the Wang Family Compound is more impressive because it is four times the size of Qiao’s Compound.  But size alone is not all that matters.  The skillful craftsmanship and attention to detail is impressive.  The carvings in stone, brick, and wood are more intricate than the ones found in the Forbidden City, which was constructed about the same time.  It gives a perspective on how much wealth this one family obtained.

Most of the buildings look pretty ordinary from afar.

It is only when you look closer do you notice the exquisite craftsmanship and attention to detail.

   

While the furniture and decorations inside the houses were elaborate and expensive for those times...

...the interiors of the rooms don't look very
spacious or comfortable by today's standards.

The Wang Family Compound is actually separated into three separate walled areas—the Gaojia Ya (where tourists first enter), the Hongmen Bao, and the Chongning Bao.

This model shows the sizes of the Gaojia Ya (far) and the Hongmen Bao (close).

The Hongmen Bao is connected to the Gaojia Ya by a footbridge.

Alternatively, the west compound can be entered through the
front entrance, hence the name Hongmen Bao (Red Door Castle).

From there, three inclined paths lead up the hill.  They intersect the
main horizontal alley creating the Chinese character for "Wang" (王)

A small garden greets visitors at the entrance of the Hongmen Bao.

Besides the garden are two wells, both currently covered.

This old basin was obviously not made of stainless steel.

To the west of the Hongmen Bao is the Chongning Bao, another large castle that was built
in 1725 by the Wangs in cooperation with other wealthy locals. It is currently the location
of a museum showcasing the works of a 20th century artist named Li Qun.

In between the two castles are several yaodongs that are still occupied by families.

It is easier to appreciate the vast scope of houses when viewed from atop the outer walls. 

The attention to detail is not limited
to the structures on the ground.

The roofs and the walls also contain ornate decorations carved in stone.

Once we were finished seeing the Wang Family Compound, we had a ten minute walk through the small surrounding town in order to get back to our van.

Some areas of the town had that not so fresh smell to them.

Since Chinese in general are so willing to eat anything...

... it can be hard to differentiate a pet store and a butcher shop

As we were heading back to Pingyao, the Little Emperor had a meltdown, probably due to lack of a nap.  The Surly Driver bluntly lectured all of us on the proper way to raise children so that they would never behave that way.  Without her husband to back her up, Shanxi Lady had her hands full.

We had dinner back at the De Ju Yuan Guesthouse.  We basically ordered more of the local specialties.  Since the area is known for its noodles, dinner was a carb-fest.

Long, tubular noodles cooked with Shanxi vinegar.

Stir fried green beans with peppers

You mian kao lao lao is steamed buckwheat noodles
served with a dipping sauce (tomatoes in this case).

Since we loved them so much from dinner the night before,
we order more stir-fried buckwheat noodles.

After dinner, we strolled along Ming-Qing Street.  Unlike the ennui during the daytime, the shops were bustling with activity.  Vendors crawled out from their shaded corners and actively hawked their wares.  Bars blared music from live bands or from karaoke singers.  And the tourists and locals came out in throngs.

Pingyao is well-lit and safe at night.  The only hazards are the locals speeding along on their bikes.

The City Tower is also outlined with light bulbs at night.

Similar to imperial times, night watchmen
roam the streets banging hand-held gongs.

Dao xiao mian is made by slicing off pieces from a block of dough.

A man makes dragon beard candy by pulling it with a hook. 

A vendor polishes his nuts carefully so as not to damage the skin.

While a tourist observes, a shopkeeper uses a loom to knit scarves.

We came across several stores that sell different types of pillows.

These pillows can be stuffed with a choice of ...

...buckwheat shells, dried lavender, or dried rose petals.

Although you can make your own pillow if you are Martha Stewart, The Wife found it is easier to buy one that was stuffed with a mixture of rose petals and buckwheat.

The filling material is first chosen and weighed.

A funnel is then used to fill an inner bag that fits inside the cotton pillow.

The Boy tries out a traditional-style pillow with openings to allow air to circulate.

With all of the walking that we did at Mian Shan and the Wang Family Compound, we all wanted to get some relief for our sore feet.

Since we probably won’t be in Thailand any time
soon, we all tried the fish tank foot “massage.”

  The nibbling of the fish really tickled for the
first few minutes. It wasn't painful at all.

As fun as the fish "massage" was, in really doesn't do anything for the muscles in our feet.  The Wife and I opted for a 30 RMB foot massage at a shop across the street from our guesthouse.    

Our feet were first soaked in a herb
infused water for ten minutes.

The masseuses then rubbed lotion on our feet and massaged them with their vise-like grips.

Although sometimes painful, the massage was so relaxing.  In fact there was another guy across from me who was snoring away loudly.  His friends had to wake him up when he was done.  The massage was a good end to all that walking that we did today through China's past.